Lima, the capital city of Peru, and somewhere firmly on my ever-growing hitlist of world heritage sites to visit.
Why? Because, from everything I’ve read and every documentary I’ve seen, it’s a fusion of poverty, history and immense wealth; a city at odds with itself if you like. This is no better evidenced than its vibrant slum scene, juxtaposed against a backdrop of ancient Incan archaeological sites, ornate cathedrals and palaces dripping with gold dating from Spanish colonial times.
If you want to see the world, you need to see it up close and personal. You have to eat, breathe and see it as locals do. Lima just seems so perfect for this. I’ve heard it said that after just one day of feeling overwhelmed by high-rises and fog, an appreciation for Lima’s distinctly messy and sprawling architectural & cultural delights, come at you like a freight train.
Foodies will dive headlong into Peruvian delicacies and potent pisco sours. In fact so serious are the Limeños about their food, Lima’s government has established a Boulevard of Gastronomy in the Surquillo district, turning a traditional farmers’ market into a pedestrian mall to showcase the fresh ingredients used in Peruvian cooking.
SOURCE: Panoramio Norbert Kurpiers
Meanwhile history fanatics will marvel at pre-Columbian masterpieces, from sublime tapestries to intricate goldwork, at destinations such as the Larco Museum, and the breathtaking Cathedral of Lima. Then chuck in Aliaga House; a must-see that will enthrall visitors with its artifacts and opulent decor. Likewise, the pedestrian mall along Jirón de la Unión boasts neoclassical and Art Deco architecture and a chance to watch street performers… see where I’m going… the city is a homage to the eras that have preceded it, right on back to the Church of San Francisco which offers up a slice of late 1600 baroque-style architecture and a wealth of catacombs for those with guts and heavy stomachs to explore.
Yet the city isn’t solely for culture seekers. It’s 43 districts are home to nearly 9 million inhabitants and its streets are as colourful as the individuals that live within them.
Lima is a study in contrasts, with ultramodern seaside neighborhoods butting up against gritty shantytowns that cling to barren hillsides. TIME Magazine
Although it’s the second driest capital city in the world, it laughs in the face of this. There’s a world renowned golf course in the heart of its financial district, and sun-seekers will find world class beaches with all the usual activities and amenities. The changing of the palace guards at Government Palace in Lima’s central square will also remind Londoners of home.
SOURCE: Flickr Gabriel Sperandio
How to get there:
The most oft used airline to whisk you to Lima is #LANAirlines. You can opt for round trip from any of the UK’s major airports.
Where to stay:
Most travelers prefer to stay in the San Isidro or Miraflores districts, which are generally thought to be the safest and most tourist-friendly areas.
Miraflores, home to the Pucllana Temple is spectacular at night with its illuminated historical ruins and haute cuisine restaurant. During the day, one can take advantage of Lima’s Garden Cities, including El Malecón with its jogging and biking routes, and prime taking-off point for parasailing. Various statues and points of interest dot its leafy paths and serve as a welcome distraction from the more tourist-centric Larcomar.
Yep built within the cliff-side underneath Miraflores, you’ll find the multilevel entertainment, food and shopping megacomplex Larcomar. Here you’ll find designer boutiques, a bustling restaurant scene and several parasitic American food franchises fighting for your attention. There are also a number of clubs and bars to keep drinkers happy and you’re likely to share the dancefloor with more tourists than locals. It might not be my cup of tea, but I’d hate to be accused of snootiness!
The San Isidro district to the North is perhaps the more upmarket of the districts. A prime destination for culinary travelers, it has the expensive yet highly acclaimed restaurants Malabar and Segundo Muelle just a short cab ride away. There’s also the Bosque El Olivar olive grove, home to more than 1,000 olive trees (some of which are centuries old).
Otherwise Central Lima is an option if I’ve tempted you with Government Palace, the Convent of San Francisco and Plaza de Armas. Yet with all that culture on your doorstep, you have to accept you’re in tourist heartland. Unsurprisingly the traffic noise will be greater and there are more budget eateries competing for your custom. It’s also not safest place to splash your cash so you’ll need to be on your guard come dusk.
Fancy it? Or have you been? Leave a comment below with your tips!
